The IPO model

 

1.1 Background of study

Every business is subject to factors that affect the firm’s function as a whole.  These factors are the ones attributed for the success or even the failure of a business.  In the light of this, there are certain ways or techniques that can be considered in order to emerge and continue to be competitive within the market place. The marketing concept has been defined as ‘the key to achieving organizational goals’ and the marketing concept rests on ‘market focus, customer orientation, coordinated marketing and profitability’. In a profit making business like supermarket and food industries the firm obviously has to try and achieve this level of customer satisfaction as a way of staying ahead of the competition and making a profit (Caicco, 2000).

In this manner, the management of a certain organization should be guided by strategic management principle and follow a certain model to be able to attain its business goal.  The management should have the ability to initiate different management technique in order to continuously create business value. 

One of the most recognised industries in Hong Kong is its fashion industry. In this regard, the research study is conducted to assess the Hong Kong leather fashion industry.

  

1.2 Aim and objectives

            Hong Kong leather fashion industry has been regarded as one of the growing industries in Hong Kong. Thus, the main objective of this paper is to formulate the design model of leather fashion. Specifically, the study aims on achieving the following objectives:

Ø      To study the history of leather fashion

Ø      To study different types of leather

Ø      To investigate different technical methods of making leather fashion

Ø      To study the history of the Hong Kong leather fashion industry

Ø      To study the development of the Hong Kong leather fashion industry

Ø      To study the importance of leather fashion in the Hong Kong fashion industry

Ø      To study the prospect of the Hong Kong leather fashion industry

 

1.3 Scope of study

            This research study will be qualitative in nature.  Thus the framework of this study will be based on the Input-Process-Output Model; a process is viewed as a series of boxes (processing elements) connected by inputs and outputs. Information or material objects flow through a series of tasks or activities based on a set of rules or decision points (Harris & Taylor, 1997).  Flow Charts and process diagrams are often used to present such process (Harris & Taylor, 1997).  Basically, what goes in is the input (what causes the change in the process) and output (the result).  See Figure 1.1 (Basic IPO Model).

 

The IPO model will provide the general structure and guide for the direction of the study. Substituting the variables of this study on the IPO model, the researcher came up with the following:

For this research, the study will focus on assessing Hong Kong leather industry, its history and how these industries survive in the stiff competition in the market place. The study will give emphasis on identifying a model that can be used by these industries to be able to have a competitive advantage among their rival industries, specifically those multinational companies. For this study, the researcher will only have respondents who have deep background regarding fashion industry so as to ensure that only pertinent data will be gathered.

 

1.4 Methodology

In this research it is important that the researcher would have the ability to efficiently determine the best methodologies to be used in order to ensure that the objective and purpose of the research will be met.  Through the appropriate methodologies, researches made will be able to have a direction to follow in order to gather the pertinent information and to be able to establish a valid conclusion that would answer the problems posited in the research.  In addition, good methodologies will also enable the researcher to provide plausible recommendation to the problems stated. There are 2 different approaches that can be used to collect data and one of these is through qualitative means.

Qualitative approaches to research are based on a "world view" which is holistic. Under these approaches, it is believed that there is not a single reality; reality is based upon perceptions that are different for each person and change over time; and what we know has meaning only within a given situation or context (Creswell, 1994). Furthermore, qualitative research is multi-method in focus, which involves an interpretative and instinctive approach to its topic. Such definition means that researchers who uses qualitative approach attempt to investigate issues in their natural background, trying to make sense of, or analyse occurrences in accordance with the meanings authorities attached to them.

Accordingly, qualitative researchers organise and arrange a broader range of interrelated approaches, which aims on getting better solution on the subject matter or topic at hand. This method usually used focus-group discussion, in-depth interview, projective techniques or observation as the approaches for collecting and gathering pertinent data. For this research study, 24 in-depth interviews will be conducted among fashion designers, marketing representatives, design educators.

 

1.5 Significance of study

            This study will be significant in management/business firms, particularly for the leather fashion industry in a sense that it will broaden their knowledge about marketing techniques and will help them weigh if the current techniques are appropriate in Hong Kong setting. Furthermore, it will contribute to business research. This can be used as a future reference for future research that will focus on having new models to be followed by leather fashion industries in Hong Kong.

Moreover, this study provides significant role to the society since it depicts the future of a certain business with regards to marketing techniques and business models.  In addition, this study might become of great use to different businesses since marketing style has negative and positive effects to different businesses or even to consumers. Moreover, research materials are useful in persuading people to adopt something new like the business mode to be followed in Hong Kong leather fashion industry.

 

1.6 Limitation of study

As stated before, this study provides significant role to the society since it depicts the future of a certain business with regards to leather fashion industry in HK. Furthermore, this study provides qualitative analysis for the findings. Additionally, every data was addressed through interpretation and in-depth evaluation. Furthermore, the number of respondents was only limited to 24 individuals (fashion designers, marketing representatives, design educators). Basically, the selection of the number of sample respondents was based from the formula of Slovin (1960) that is illustrated by Guilford, J.P. and B. Fruchter (1973). The outcome of this study will be limited only to the data gathered from books and journals and from the primary data gathered from the result of the questionnaire survey and interview that will be conducted by the researcher.

 

Chapter 2: Review of Literature

 

2.1 History of leather fashion

One of the first concerns of humankind must have been for coverings to protect the body from the elements, a practice so old that later attributions to specific inventors for the most part are imaginary. Although a variety of materials have been used for clothing, during the classical period garments were most often made from textiles and leathers. The most important textiles were made from two animal fibres (wool and silk) and two plant fibres (cotton and linen); other sources played minor roles (hemp, asbestos, reed, hair from various animals). The hides of a variety of animals were used as clothing from an even earlier date, but in the classical world, cattle, sheep, and pigs had become the main sources of leather products (Humphrey et al, 1998).

Although the raw materials were generally not treated by technological means until they had been harvested and the production of these raw materials might be considered part of agriculture and husbandry, a few examples of early treatment can be cited. Once harvested, the crude materials underwent a variety of treatments to make the fabric suitable for use: from cleaning and softening to mordanting and dyeing. At this point the textile was ready for spinning and weaving into cloth. The tanning of hides and skins required an initial treatment to remove the epidermis and flesh layers of the hide, leaving the middle corium layer in a manner that opened the structure to receive the tanning agent. The application of tanning agents preserved the corium layer and made it water-proof. The final stage of treatment involved finishing the leather by rolling, applying grease to help with pliability and water-resistance, dyeing, and other treatments to improve the appearance of the leather. It was then ready to be cut and used for clothing, shoes, weaponry, and a multitude of other products.

Leather, and the clothing products made from leather, was equal to wool in importance during the early Colonial period. In some respects leather was even more closely identified with Colonial America than wool, for while the colonists always depended upon England for much of their wool supply, they soon became independent in their production of leather. Although leather was adapted to many uses, its greatest importance was for boots and shoes.

It has long been said that civilization marches on foot, and the well-shod races have always overcome the unshod. Whether or not the early settlers were aware of this, they were continually calling for tanners, shoemakers, and a greater supply of leather.

Leather goods, too, found a sale, for the tanning industry was further advanced in England than in Ireland. -- tanned hides, girdles, and points; also pots and pans ("battery") and pedlary ware. Alum, invaluable in the dyeing of cloth and the tanning of leather, was frequently sent (Carus-Wilson, 1967). Although, it is difficult to note exactly the time when leather has become a fashion statement or has become fashionable. Some research have said that leather fashion begun in the time of the Wild West at the United States of America, in which people imagines a cowboy who wears leather chaps to protect himself  from dusts and other elements. With this, wearing leather garments are said to be related to the Wild West long ago.  After this period, the time of motorcycles and road adventures became prevalent and leather has again used to make other things like gloves and jackets to give protection from the wind during road travel.  From the trends of fashion in this generation, leather is well renowned as to be used an accessory rather than used as a jacket. Nowadays, different fashion shows and fashion magazines are presenting innovative and modern style, with a new and exciting approach to create leather items. This is primarily due to the various tastes and styles of the people who get to buy and use leather as pats of their fashion sense.

 

2.2 Types of leather

            Accordingly, leather can be considered as old as development of human. As man hunt animals to live, they found out that animal skins can be used for clothing and for different implements like shoes, bags and others. Leather goods are by-products of producing meat.  The industry of leather can be considered as a multi-million dollar organisation because leather now is essential to people, specifically in terms of fashion. These necessities of mankind have paved the way to create more products that will meet the needs of the people. Primarily, the leather comes in different kinds. These types include suede, pigskin and other exotic and unusual types from crocodile, stingray and snakeskin. Moreover, leather can be seen in a variety of colors or a combination such as the stingray purse in a classic red eye. And since more people are demanding for exotic types of leathers, raising animals that provides this kind of leather are being considered and become an important part of the industry.

            The exotic types of leathers have distinctive grains that create the accessory or clothing an attraction and even desirable. On the other hand, crocodile leather is known to be an established and recognised luxury or noted to be a status symbol. Lastly, the leather made from stingray are known to get or attracts attentions.

 2.3 Production process of leather

            It can be noted that the manufacturing or production process of leather is categorized into 3 basic sub-processes. Such categories include the preparatory stages, tanning and crusting. Consequently, all leathers that were classified as true leathers will undertake these sub-process. After which, another sub-process through surface coating can also be added into the leather process series. However, not all leathers undergo the same surface treatment. Since there are various types of leather mentioned above, it is hard to have a list of production operation that all leathers should undertake.

            As mentioned, the first sub-process is the preparatory stage. In this phase, the hide or skin is prepared to undergo the tanning process. In this stage, the skin will be preserved, soaked, limed, unhaired and fleshed. In addition, the skin will also experience reliming, frizing, depickling, pickling, bating, bleaching, and degreasing. During the tanning stage, the skin fibers are being stabilized to ensure that it will be resistant or resilient to attack of bacteria. Tanning is also used to make sure that the skin will maintain its flexibility during the drying period and to eventually increase the thermal stability. In tanning, the skin will undertake the penetration stage and fixation.

            After the preparation stage, crusting will be next. In this stage, the hide/skin is being thinned, lubricated and retanned. In this stage, coloring operation is done in the sub-process of crusting. Herein, the chemical which has been added in crusting period has to be fixed in its right position. In the sub-process of crusting, the final procedure is the drying and softening process. The crusting stage may composed of splitting, dyeing, retanning, whitening, shaving, sammying, buffing, drying, fixation, neutralization, stripping, setting, rechroming, conditioning, filling, staking and wetting back. For some types of leathers surface coating is being done. Surface coating is also known as finishing which may composed of ironing, padding, buffing, roller coating, oiling, polishing, curtain coating, impregnation, embossing, ironing/combing, glazing, spraying and plating. 

2.4 Dyeing and finishing methods used in leather

The tanning of leather is known to be the process of making raw skins into leather. Accordingly, these hides and skins is capable of absorbing  tannic acid and other elements or chemical substances which prevent them from decomposing, make them resilient to wetting and making them durable and supple. Hides and skins surface consists of the hair and oil glands which is known as the grain side. In this regard, the flesh side of the materials are known to be much thicker and softer. The three kinds of hides and skins which are commonly used in leather manufacturing are those that come from sheep, cattle and pigs. The tanning process is basically the reaction of collagen fibres which are in the hide with chromium, tannins, alum and other chemical elements. Usually, the typical tanning agents that is used for tanning is the trivalent chromium and also the vegetable tannins which came from particular tree barks. There are also some other man mad chemicals which are also used as tanning agents.

Leathers may undergo dyeing and finishing methods. Consequently, leathers may be finished in different ways. This can be done by buffing using fine abrasives to create a suede finish, waxing, shellacking or treating using pigments, resins and dyes to have a smooth, more polished surface and the required colors, or lacquering with urethane to have a glossy patent types of leather. Some leathers may be finished using solvents and waters. With this, plating is then sued to smoothen the surface of the material’s coating and bond these to the grain. Furthermore, hides may also emboss.

One of the most important parts of leather tanning and finishing are emissions and controls. It is noted that there are different potential sources of air emissions in the tanning and finishing of leather. The emissions of VOC may happen during finishing procedures, if and only if organic solvents are being used and during other production process like drying process and fat liquoring. In this regard, if organic degreasing solvents are utilised in times of soaking in manufacturing of suede leather, these VOC may evaporate to the atmosphere.

There are many tanneries which are using water-based coatings so as to lessen VOC emissions. In this regard, control facilities like thermal oxidizers are being utilised less frequently to decrease VOC emissions. During some of the wet production processing, occurrence of ammonia emissions is possible like in the process of unhairing and deliming. It may also happen if in drying procedure, the ammonia is utilised to assist dye penetration in colouring.

2.5 Advanced technology used in leather

Rapid changes in fashion styling provoke rapid changes in materials and production technologies. New ways of treating and tanning leather, new types of synthetic leather and fabrics, and new dyes and components emerge on the market just as frequently as new fashion styles. For example, Material inputs in shoe production include an immense variety of items to cover complex design and comfort features such as flexibility, grip, shock-absorption, sweat absorption, ventilation, elasticity, strength, and so on. Leather or synthetic leather is by far the main materials in terms of value, but many smaller items are purchased at frequent intervals, and their costs account for a significant proportion of the total cost of production. Items such as trimming, threads, ribbons, buckles, linings and enforcements with different types of fabrics, cement for different types of leather, metal components such as shanks and ornaments, labelling and packing materials, lasts, cutting dies, heels, insoles, and soles are all parts of the everyday paraphernalia in shoe manufacturing. A standard order sheet of materials for one style of a women's fashion shoe contains at least 50 items, excluding color/texture variations of the leather (Hsing, 1998). Among these materials there are two major kinds of material used in shoe production: leather and other animal hides; and petrochemicals used to make plastics, such as polyvinyl chlorides (PVC) and polyurethane (PU), synthetic leather, and rubber. The supply of animal hides and petrochemical materials for shoe production tend to be unstable, because of the unstable supply of crude oil and livestock in the world market.  

2.6 Development of the Hong Kong leather fashion industry.

            Being able to survive in the local market environment, the leather fashion industry has become one of the most important industries in the export market. Hong Kong leather products makers has been able to export wide range of goods including garments, footwear, leather fashion accessories and handbags to the global market environment.  From small manufacturing industries to an international provider of leather products Hong Kong leather fashion industry has been recognised as an essential sourcing centre for leather fashion products primarily because of the high quality it offers to the market and quick response to the newest and latest fashion trends. Furthermore, Hong Kong leather fashion industry has also the capacity of meeting the specific demands and requirements of the customer in terms of leather goods.

            The leather fashion industry has conquered the global market rapidly. In year 2004, the Hongkong leather fashion products’ export has increased by 1% and its total selling to the Mainland China has increased by 41% (HK Leather, 2004). In year 2006, the exports of the Hong Kong leather consumer goods have dramatically increased by 2%. The United States and European Union has an account of about 50 for the former and 20% for the latter in terms of HK’s sales of leather products, respectively. In line with the major markets of HK leather consumer goods, the Mainland Chinese has been recorded to have the highest development having 29% in the same year. Other international markets which have better performance include Japan with 7% and Australia with 8%. The table below shows the statistical data of the production of leather goods in HK only.

Table 1

Featured Industry

No. of Establishments	43 (manufacturing) - Sep 2005 3,837 (import and export) - Dec 2005
Employment	133 (manufacturing) - Sep 2005 17,658 (import and export) - Dec 2005

            

The table shows that as of September 2005, there were 43 leather goods manufacturing companies which have a related workforce of 133. It is said that in line with the rising operation cost in HK, most of the local leather goods manufacturers have already shifted an important part of production to the Mainland china and leaves only a restricted ability in HK to meet small number of orders. Other leather goods manufacturers have also invested primarily in advanced automated equipments and operating systems to modernise and restructured the whole production process of leather.

            Other HK firms are involved in leather goods trading. At the latter part of 2005, the number of firms engaged in the import-export trading of the leather products has been noted to be 3,837. In these companies, the employees working amounted to 17, 658. Moreover, it is also noted that in addition to competitive workforce costs, a wide range of raw materials most especially parts and fittings are being supplied by neighbouring sources from China.  The leather goods manufacturers in Taiwan, Mainland China and Hong Kong are known to be vertically integrated which is attributed to their developed flexibility and quality control in terms of production. This vertical integration is also the reason why these companies have been able to create synergies. For example, the Yue Yuen Industrial (Holdings) Ltd, which is known to be a HK listed industry, teams up or joined with a notable upstream suppliers scaling from raw materials up to the shoes components.

Table 2

 

(HK$ Billion)	2004		2005		2006
	Value	Growth %	Value	Growth %	Value	Growth %
Domestic Exports	0.082	-15	0.056	-32	0.054	-4
Re-exports	35.549	+2	39.683	+12	40.297	+2
of Chinese Mainland Origin	33.771	+1	38.006	+13	38.504	+1
Total Exports	35.631	+2	39.739	+12	40.351	+2

 

Table 3

 

by Markets (Top 10 in 2006)	2004		2005		2006
	Share %	Growth %	Share %	Growth %	Share %	Growth %
US	56.9	+2	52.9	+2	51.2	*
EU (25)	14.3	-6	20.9	+63	20.1	-3
UK	3.2	-3	4.7	+64	4.4	-4
Germany	2.3	-1	4.3	+107	3.4	-20
Italy	1.8	+5	3.1	+97	3.2	+6
Japan	7.9	-5	7.5	+7	7.9	+7
Canada	4.5	+11	4.1	+2	4.2	+2
China	2.3	+47	2.5	+21	3.2	+29
Australia	2.7	+13	2.6	+4	2.7	+8
Taiwan	2.1	+8	1.8	-9	1.8	+3
South Korea	1.9	+13	1.7	+2	1.7	+4

 

Table 4

 

by Categories	2004		2005		2006
	Share %	Growth %	Share %	Growth %	Share %	Growth %
Footwear	73.4	-3	73.3	+11	72.4	*
Handbags, Trunks, Suitcases	12.4	+28	12.8	+15	14.9	+18
Apparel	4.5	-8	3.9	-3	3.3	-16
Gloves, Mittens, Mitts	5.3	+21	4.9	+3	4.0	-16
Other Clothing Accessories	4.4	+23	5.1	+29	5.4	+8

*Insignificant

Note: Since offshore trade has not been captured by ordinary trade figures, these numbers do not necessarily reflect the full picture of the export business managed by Hong Kong companies.

 

Some of the HK firms which are engaged in trading leather products are appointed by global foreign brands which acted as the HK manufacturing agents in the region. Some HK leather products manufacturing companies are able to initiate approaches to develop the mainland market. These companies include, Belle, Mirabelle and Staccato.

HK exports of leather products have increased by 12% in the year 2005 and continue to rise of up to 2% in the following year. Accordingly, the United States is the number one export target for leather products which contributes vaguely more than half of the HK firms’ total exports.  On the other hand, European Union and Japan follows the US which have a share of 20% and 8% respectively.

The development of HK exports of these leather goods to the United States was minimal in 2006, whilst, the exports of the HK firms in EU also decreased by 3%. Conversely, HK manufacturer of leathers has been able to have export growth in mainland China of 29% on the same year. In addition, it has been recorded that sales in Japan and Australia also increased by 7% and 8%. In accordance with products, exports of suitcases, handbags and trunks held strong and increased by 18% in year 2006. While the exports of leather footwear which has taken up around 72% of the all the leather goods exported has level-off in 2006.  HK’s exports in line with apparels and also mittens and mitts, gloves have declined by 16%. However, sales of other miscellaneous accessories recorded a raise of 8%.

 2.6.1 HK Leather Fashion Industry Sales Channels

            Most of the leather products manufacturers in HK are considered to belong in Small Medium enterprises (SMes). Such enterprises primarily create on an OEM basis for leading industries in Japan, Western Europe and North America. Herein, some manufacturers are engages in designing and developing products, modelling, engineering, quality control and tooling. On the other hand, some of the manufacturers are still chosen to sell to international distributors and importers which offer products to wholesalers and retailers. It is also noted that instead of relying largely on OEM/ODM contracts, most of leather consumer products organisations are trying to have their own retail and wholesale channels. Herein, specific suppliers like Le Saunda and Goldlion are able to sell their brand name leathers goods in HK and other market place including mainland china.

Having an objective of fostering local talents in line with footwear design and to encourage more HK footwear suppliers to improve the design components of the goods, HK Leather Shoe (HKLS) along with Shoe Material Merchants Association (SMMA) and as sponsored by the HK Trade Development Council, these two organisation structures the HK Footwear Design Competition annually.

As part of their marketing strategy, HK leather goods manufacturers as well as traders are able to join in international trade shows under the sponsorship of Trade Development Council. Such international shows include different manufacturing industries in different nations like GDS Shoe Fair from Düsseldorf and the MOTEXHA and Dalian International Garment Fair (DIGF) from the United Arab Emirates. Some of these companies, specifically those involved in selling wallets, handbags and miscellaneous accessories also joins in trade fairs for gift products like Tokyo International Show (in Tokyo Japan), Ambiente Frankfurt and Birmingham International Spring fair.

2.6.2 Leather Fashion Industry Trends

In order to stay and survive in the international competition and be able to decrease its production costs, the leather fashion industry in Hong Kong have been able to shift an important part of their production process equipments to the mainland China. Some industries are investing heavily to avail for a more advanced automated machines and OS to make sure that their production process is up to date with the new technologies.

In previous years, the government of China has become more and more concerned with the environmental problems and pollution because of industrial productions and activities. Hence, the government has made tougher policies and laws to be implemented due to the financial and social effects of the weakening environment. Like for instance, the Cleaner Production Promotion law demands the industries in China to adapt a new production process and product designs which will protect the environment.  In provincial levels, some regions like Guangdong plans on centralising the heavily polluted manufacturing companies, including tanning of leather in designated industrial locations so as to consolidate and merge an effective way of processing industrial waste.  In this regard, it shows that tougher provisions in line with environmental protection should be considered by many industries in the future.

On the other hand, some of the leather manufacturers and retailers in the United States are being attacked by lobbying groups for selling goods from nations using leather skinned of coming from dead animals which have been subject to extreme pains and distress during transit and being killed. Like for instance, the protests from organisation like People for the Ethical treatment of Animals (PETA), have made some bigger industries boycott the leather which came from the animals that has been suffered from intolerable situation when it is in transit or slaughterhouse.

 

Chapter 3: Methodology 

3.1 Introduction

Referring to the aim and objectives set for the dissertation, the author will now demonstrate the methodology of the means of obtaining data for analysis and coming to the conclusion to meet the aim and objectives.  Though it does show ethnic concerns to those out there, interviews will be tied with the primary data research collection of this dissertation and the secondary research will be supported through the use of the research of other scholars as mentioned in the literature review.

3.2 Research design

This study uses the descriptive approach.  This descriptive type of research will utilize observations in the study.  Basically, this study, as a whole, can be classified as a descriptive research, whose objective is to portray an accurate profile of persons, events or situations, and may be an extension or a forerunner to a piece of exploratory research, a research that tries to establish causal relationship between variables. (Saunders et al, 2003) Accordingly, with the descriptive research, it is necessary to have a clear picture of the phenomena on which a researcher wishes to collect data prior to the collection of the data. (Saunders et al, 2003). Further, even if many project tutors are often wary or work that is too descriptive, and they will want a researcher to go further and draw conclusions from the data gathered, description in management and business research has a very clear place, although, it should not be thought of as an end in itself, but only as a means to an end. (Saunders et al, 2003).

The research described in this document is based solely on qualitative method. The qualitative method permits a flexible and iterative approach. During data gathering the choice and design of methods are constantly modified, based on ongoing analysis. This allows investigation of important new issues and questions as they arise, and allows the investigators to drop unproductive areas of research from the original research plan.           

The value of qualitative research can best be understood by examining its characteristics. One of the primary advantages of qualitative research is that it is more open to the adjusting and refining of research ideas as an inquiry proceeds. Also, the researcher does not attempt to manipulate the research setting, as in an experimental study, but rather seeks to understand naturally occurring phenomena in their naturally occurring states. Inductive reasoning, as opposed to deductive reasoning, is common in qualitative research, along with content or holistic analysis in place of statistical analysis (Meyer et al, 1995).  

3.3 Data collection method

The literature on using qualitative approach strongly affirmed the suitability of utilising in-depth interviews in collecting and collating the required information and data for the objective of the research. For this study, the data collection method is solely composed of in-depth interview. Herein the research  design a questionnaire for the for the interview process. The primary aim of the questionnaire is to determine the new models that can be used by HK leather fashion industry.

 

In-Depth Interview

This method is conducted face-to-face with the chosen respondent and allows each topic to be explored in depth. There are two known types of In-Depth interview: Nondirective interview and Semi structured/Focused Individual interview. Nondirective interview gives an extreme freedom to the respondent to answer the questions, within the interviewer’s bounds of interest. In this manner, to be able to have a successful interview, the interviewer should consider the following: build a relaxed and sympathetic relationship with the respondent, be able to probe in order to clarify any complicated responses and possess a skill of guiding the discussion back to the topic outline when there is a digression, always asking for reasons behind the comments and answers.

In this manner, in-depth interviews included fashion designers, educators and marketing representatives. The utilisation of this data collection method permits the researcher to gather relevant ideas on the subject by using series of questions. In this regard, in-depth interviews may help in classifying and organising the perception of an individual in terms of reality (Fetterman, 1989). In addition, it also enables the researcher to have an in-depth comprehension of an individual’s experiences and opinions (Morgan, 1997).

As mentioned in-depth interview method for this study will be done in the respondents consisting of fashion designers, educators and marketing representatives. In this study, three interview guides has been developed. The first interview guide questions was utilised with the fashion designers, the seconf with interview guide was used for the fashion educators and the third is used for the marketing representatives. Each interview usually ended one to three hours.

 

3.4 Research sampling

Simple Random sampling is the sampling design of this study; it is the most appropriate design to use in this study since the population size is not available and the researcher decided the sample size of the study. This design is popular in the field of opinion research because it is done by merely looking for individuals with the requisite characteristics, particularly electrical engineering students for this study. Moreover, this paper utilizes the Slovin’s formula to obtain the reliability and validity of the samples.The formula of Slovin (1960) is given as follows:

Where:

            n = a sample size     

N= population size

e= desired margin of error (percent allowance for non-precision             because of the use of the sample instead of the population). 

 3.5 Interview questions

            The research study is conducted to determine a new model for HK leather fashion industry. In this regard, the researcher opted to have 8 fashion designers, 8 fashion educators and 8 marketing managers as respondents. The following questions will be used in interviewing the respondents who participated in the study.

           

A. Interview questions (Fashion Designers)

1.      What is your definition about the context of leather fashion?

2.          What are the factors affecting the design of leather fashion:

a.      In terms of production design?

b.      In terms of commercial aspects?

3.      Cite some difficulties in creating leather fashions?

4.      What is your definition of good design in leather fashion?

 

B. Interview questions (Fashion Educators)

1.      What is your definition about the context of leather fashion?

2.      What are the factors affecting the design of leather fashion:

a.      In terms of production design?

b.      In terms of commercial aspects?

3.      Cite some difficulties in creating leather fashions?

4.      What is your definition of good design in leather fashion?

  

C. Interview questions (Marketing Manager)

1.      What is the importance of leather fashion in HK’s fashion industry?

2.      What could you expect from the leather fashion industry of Hong Kong?

3.      What is the significance of having a new design model for HK leather fashion industry?

4.      What is your definition of the context of leather fashion?

5.      What is your definition of good design in leather fashion?

6.      Cite some difficulties in creating leather fashions?

 

3.6 Conducting interviews

To assess the problem at hand, the researcher prepared a questionnaire and a set of guide questions for the interview that is asked to the intended respondents. It was indicated that this will be answered with no more than one to two hours of the respondents’ time. Furthermore, the answers will be completely anonymous and confidential and if there were any particular questions the respondents do not want to answer, it was a standard that they should inform the researcher.

 

3.7 Data analysis

            For this research study, the researcher used a four-step procedure in analysing the collected data from interviews. The four steps procedure were composed of sorting of collected data, open coding, continuous comparative analysis and theoretical coding. In this manner, the collected information from the in-depth interviews has been transcribed using a word processing approach to be able to provide a basis for the analysis. The data gathered from different respondents was then sorted into different categories in accordance to which the respondents responded. For, instance the perception in the definition of leather fashions from the respondents (designers, educators) has been sorted into the first and second group, accordingly.  On the other hand, the third group composed those responses from the marketing representatives on the same question.

The sorting of information also involved repeated readings of the data transcribed to be able to understand better the context of each of the respond and to be able to record the consistency of the responses. In addition, by taking into considerations the context and the consistency of the respondents’ answers, the researcher has interpret the words of the respondents by paying closer and keen attention to the solid responses.

The coding began with the determination of first level abstractions for the collected information from the in-depth interviews and surveys. Herein, the used of word coding has been developed in order to described the occurrences in a particular fragment of information. A guide for coding has been developed for this specific process and this was utilised for the rest of the collected information. This has been presented in a checklist matrix each for the categories of respondents (designers, educators and marketing representatives.

An example of open coding for the HK designers responses in line with the definition of leather fashion can be seen in the following table.

Table 5

Open Coding in terms of Definition of Leather Fashion

HK fashion site/fashion designer/definition of leather fashion	Code
Question 1: What is your definition of leather fashion?   FD1: Leather fashion refers to a type of people’s life style in terms of leather products. The responsibility of the fashion designer is to create something from leather which can be considered as artistic so as to attract the target market.	Social Aspects   Aesthetic Forms   Psychological
FD2: Leather fashion is a creation which can make the user looking comfortable and can bring out his or her characters out of leather products.	Aesthetic Perception   Develops individual character and personality.
FD3: Leather fashion is something to be emphasised as trendy and can match different moods at a specific time period. The leather fashion can also reflect to the lifestyle of the people and the quality of life.	Indicates social life
FD4: Leather fashion is a kind of fashion styles which can be noted as trendy and pop.	Aesthetic Sense
FD5: Leather fashion is a fashion sense which can represents thought and emotion and an indication of modern life style	Psychological factor   Cultural factor Social Life
FD6 Leather fashion is any accessories, garments and products which make an individual feel good and emphasises his/her personality.	Psychological factors   Improved individual personality
FD7: Leather fashion is a creation which provides the needs and demands of target market for new fashion products that will enhance their individual fashion sense.	Psychological aspects   Aesthetic preferences
FD8: Leather fashion can be defined as products that provide satisfaction for the customers. It is said that leather products are now the in demand trends in fashion designing	Psychological aspects     Marketing factors

  

Chapter 4: Findings and analysis

4.1 Introduction

This part of the study shall be discussing the findings based on the self-administered questionnaire and in-depth interview conducted by the researcher. The primary objective of this study is to determine a new model for leather fashion in Hong Kong. The study intends to investigate the concept of leather fashion designing and how this can be changed as perceived by  the respondents. Prior to the initiation of the interview process, the purpose, the significance and objectives of the study were relayed to the participants. They were also assured that all the information they had provided are solely for the purpose of the study while their identities would remain confidential.

For this study, primary research and secondary research are used. Primary research was conducted using interview questionnaires that were sent to 24 respondents. The respondents were composed of fashion designers, fashion educators and marketing representatives. The questionnaires have been to collect qualitative data. The conduct of this study entails the level and position of the respondents.  It is assumed that the attributes of the respondents influence on their behaviour and answers on the interview questions.

 

4.2 Presentation of data analysis

a.   Checklist matrix for leather fashion designers

Table 6

First Order Category	Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Definition of Leather Fashion	Stylish Reflects individual personality Aesthetic preferences Aesthetic Perception Personal Interests		Aesthetic Presence   Psychological Satisfaction
Definition of Good Design	Aesthetic viewpoint Harmony in terms of arts Innovativeness Elements of the design The demands of the target market Demands of the market environment The concept of Design		Artistic presence   Customer Satisfaction   Social behavior
Design Constraint	Demands of target market Saleability Designer’s Personal Interest Fashion Designers personal  design style Commercial constraints Requirements of the market place		Market behavior     Personal Satisfaction
Design Process
First Order Category		Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Major affecting factors		Artistic beauty Originality and Uniqueness Artistic sense Meets the needs of the target market Personal design style		Personal Satisfaction   Marketability   Individuality   Artistic Presence
Gathering Design Ideas		The market place The cultural background Social happenings Social life Artistic Preferences		Market attitude   Social Behavior   Artistic Presence
Synthesising Design Ideas		Main theme for leather products Personal Ideas Designer’s creative sense The elements of design Psychological aspects		Personal Satisfaction   Artistic/Aesthetic Influence   Psychological satisfaction
Design Evaluation		Innovativeness and Uniqueness Artistic sense/outlook Designer’s interest Designer’s belief Practicality Opinions of other designers Reactions of other designers The needs of the target market		Artistic Presence   Psychological Satisfaction   Market attitude

 

 b.   Checklist matrix for marketing representatives

Table 7

First Order Category	Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Definition of Leather fashion	Artistic Presence Creativity and Distinctiveness Needs of target market		Social Attitude   Market Behavior   Customer Satisfaction
Definition of Good Design	Marketability Saleability Artistic Presence Creativity and Distinctiveness Needs of target market Innovativeness High Quality Brand Image		Social Attitude   Market Behavior   Customer Satisfaction   Quality of the leather products
Design Constraint	Demands of the market Demands of the customers Commercial aspects Saleability Marketability Practicality Innovativeness Distinctiveness and Creativity		Customer Satisfaction     Market behavior     Product Distinction
Design Process
First Order Category		Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Major affecting factors		Main theme Match the needs of the customers Aesthetic viewpoint Elements of Leather Products Design Commercial Marketability Saleability		Artistic Presence   Customer satisfaction   Market Preferences
Gathering Design Ideas		Cultural aspects Historical preferences Social gatherings Elements of Design Leather fashion Demands Aesthetic Preferences		Social Attitude Market Attitude Historical revival Aesthetic Presence
Synthesising Design Ideas		Main Theme Market Interests Customer Interests Elements of Design Artistic Sense		Artistic Presence Market Attitude Customer Attitude
Design Evaluation		Innovativeness Creativeness and Uniqueness Practicality Affordability Market Needs Marketer’s Belief		Personal Satisfaction   Customer satisfaction Market Attitude Commercial aspects

 

c.   Checklist matrix for fashion educators

Table 8

First Order Category	Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Definition of Leather fashion	Stylish Reflects individual personality Aesthetic preferences Aesthetic Perception Personal Interests Fine Arts		Aesthetic Presence   Psychological Satisfaction
Definition of Good Design	Aesthetic viewpoint Harmony in terms of arts Innovativeness Elements of the design The demands of the target market Demands of the market environment The concept of Design Fine Arts		Artistic presence   Customer Satisfaction   Social behavior
Design Constraint	Demands of target market Saleability Designer’s Personal Interest Fashion Designers personal  design style Commercial constraints Requirements of the market place		Market behavior     Personal Satisfaction
Design Process
First Order Category		Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Major affecting factors		Artistic beauty Originality and Uniqueness Artistic sense Meets the needs of the target market Personal design style Fashion Trends		Personal Satisfaction   Marketability   Individuality   Artistic Presence
Gathering Design Ideas		The market place The cultural background Social happenings Social life Artistic Preferences		Market attitude   Social Behavior   Artistic Presence
Synthesising Design Ideas		Main theme for leather products Personal Ideas Designer’s creative sense The elements of design Psychological aspects		Personal Satisfaction   Artistic/Aesthetic Influence   Psychological satisfaction
Design Evaluation		Innovativeness and Uniqueness Artistic sense/outlook Designer’s interest Designer’s belief Practicality Opinions of other designers Reactions of other designers The needs of the target market		Artistic Presence   Psychological Satisfaction   Market attitude

 

Meta-matrix for fashion designers, marketing managers, design educators

Table 9

First Order Category	Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Definition of Leather fashion	Stylish Reflects individual personality Aesthetic preferences Aesthetic Perception Personal Interests Artistic Presence Creativity and Distinctiveness Needs of target market Fine Arts		Aesthetic Presence   Psychological Satisfaction   Social Attitude   Market Behavior   Customer Satisfaction
Definition of Good Design	Aesthetic viewpoint Harmony in terms of arts Innovativeness Elements of the design The demands of the target market Demands of the market environment The concept of Design Fine Arts Marketability Saleability Artistic Presence Creativity and Distinctiveness High Quality Brand Image		Artistic presence   Customer Satisfaction   Social Attitude   Market Behavior   Customer Satisfaction   Quality of the leather products
Design Constraint	Saleability Designer’s Personal Interest Fashion Designers personal  design style Commercial constraints Demands of the market Demands of the customers Commercial aspects Marketability Practicality Innovativeness Distinctiveness and Creativity		Market behavior   Personal Satisfaction   Customer Satisfaction   Market behavior   Product Distinction
Design Process
First Order Category		Second Order Category		Third Order Category
Major affecting factors		Artistic beauty Originality and Uniqueness Artistic sense Personal design style Fashion Trends Main theme Match the needs of the customers Aesthetic viewpoint Elements of Leather Products Design Commercial Marketability Saleability		Personal Satisfaction   Marketability   Individuality   Artistic Presence   Customer satisfaction   Market Preferences
Gathering Design Ideas		The market place Social happenings Social life Artistic Preferences Cultural aspects Historical preferences Social gatherings Elements of Design Leather fashion Demands		Market attitude   Social Behavior   Historical revival   Aesthetic Presence
Synthesising Design Ideas		Main theme for leather products Personal Ideas Designer’s creative sense The elements of design Psychological aspects Market Interests Customer Interests Artistic Sense		Personal Satisfaction   Artistic/Aesthetic Influence   Psychological satisfaction   Market Attitude   Customer Attitude
Design Evaluation		Innovativeness and Uniqueness Artistic sense/outlook Designer’s interest Designer’s belief Practicality Opinions of other designers Reactions of other designers The needs of the target market Practicality Affordability Market Needs Marketer’s Belief		Artistic Presence   Psychological Satisfaction   Market attitude   Personal Satisfaction   Customer satisfaction   Commercial aspects

 

4.3 Design model of leather fashion

1) Factors affecting the design of leather fashion

a) Design considerations (Silhouette, colour, materials, design details, design principles,

construction method, dye and finishing methods, etc)

b) Commercial considerations (Function, quality, price, aesthetic, brand image, etc)

2) Difficulties of creating leather fashion

3) Importance of leather fashion in the Hong Kong fashion industry

4) Prospect of the Hong Kong leather fashion industry

  

Chapter 5: Conclusion

5.1 Introduction

5.2 Conclusion about the research

5.3 Implications for further research