Research Findings
Introduction
The main goal of this
dissertation is to identify the factors behind the inefficiency of the weaker
(small scale sector) against their giant counterpart in the textile and apparel
industries. In addition, it also aims to determine the ways in which small scale
business in this sector can use to overcome the challenges they are facing in
the global market This part of the research study provides the analysis on how
the change in the textile and apparel industry took place and how each player in
the industry reacted or responds to the change. In this regard, the analysis
will be based on the secondary data collated from different journals, articles
and books relevant to the changes in textile and apparel industries. The main
goal of this paper is to determine the factors that affects the
Changes in textile and Apparel
Industries and their response
The advent of the twenty-first
century has been characterized by constant change and not one organization can
escape the effects of operating in a turbulent, dynamic and an ever-changing
environment. The forces of change are so great that the very success and
survival of any organization is dependent on how well they respond to change and
whether they can actually stay ahead of change (Sims 2002). In addition, change
from forces such as globalization, persistent technological innovations,
exceptional competition, political upheaval and the opening of new markets puts
forth constant pressure on firms of various sizes and types. Consequently, these
firms are starting to shift their gears in responding to evolving advancements
of the world (Sims 2002).
Indeed, change has driven firms to
rethink and review their current strategies. Companies have now begun to think
globally in order to remain competitive in the business field. In addition,
companies have now also operated internationally in response to the changes
occurring in the environment. Such strategies in response to the demands of the
competitive business field also include the shift of domestic supply chain
management into global supply chain management.
In the past few decades, textile
and apparel companies have been struggling to reinvent themselves
(Mittelhauser, 1997). By investing in new
technologies, merging to reduce costs, employing offshore plants to perform
certain operations, and developing new products and services, they have been
attempting to find a niche in the international market. According to some
measures, they have been successful, as production has remained stable and many
companies have been profitable.
As noted in the literature review,
analysis shows that textile and apparel industry is highly competitive business
where product life is short and differentiation are established on brand image
and product styling which can be quickly imitated. Throughout the past two
decades, the competition on price and quality has intensified as low cost global
manufacturing became accessible to even small competitors. In the recent years,
competition has lifted to the area of timing and know-how where vertically
integrated industries has been able to gain the lead in implementing set of
process innovations known as quick response, generated to shorted the production
cycle (Chen, 1999). On one hand, less integrated industries have started to
erode that advantage, but the integrated industries that have linked quick
response into retailing continue to have superior capabilities and
potentialities. These industries demonstrate the component of organisation
needed to link fast cycle and flexible manufacturing with rapid learning
regarding demand and customer satisfaction.
There are many factors that enable
textile and apparel industries in the world to pursue changes and innovation.
Some of these include macroeconomic changes, growth and development of a more
integrated world economy, labour market alterations, the existence of
globalization and the emergence of micro-electronic innovation in information
communication technology (Taplin, 1996). As mentioned in the previous chapters,
some of the main aspects impacting the competitiveness of textile and apparel
industries include industrial and trade policies, trade barriers, financial
capital, buying power, impact of Multinational industries on socio-economic
industry and managerial skills. With these factors, changes in textile and
apparel industries have become of the anticipated phenomenon in the global
market.
In the late 1990s and after the
turn of the century, most of the earlier trends in manufacturing industry,
specifically in textile and apparel industries have continued if not
intensified. As mentioned in the literature review, textile and apparel
industries have encountered dramatic changes in many aspects including the
regulatory environment when the World Trade Organization (WTO) agreement
Textiles and Clothing (ATC) replaced the MFA in 1995. This change has resulted
in further import penetration of the global market. The opening of the European
Union markets to imports and the removal of the trade barriers against imports.
In addition, it can also be analysed that changes in textile and apparel
industries took place because of the emergence of globalisation and
liberalisation trends, have further exposed most textile and apparel industries
in the global market (Taplin, 2004).
The process of globalisation is
commonly recognised to be characteristic of contemporary international
developments. Contemporary
processes of globalisation have several dimensions or faces: technological,
cultural, religious, economic and political. None of these is in itself good or
bad. All should be understood as ambiguous, with potential for good and evil,
but in the current phase of globalisation it is important to distinguish the
different faces of globalisation and identify with a potential to pursue the
good. Globalisation impplies
two distinct phenomena. First, it suggests that political, economic and social
activity is becoming worldwide in scope. Secondly, it suggests that there has
been an intensification of levels of interaction and interconnectedness among
the states and societies (Held, 1991). Among these relations are those created
by the progressive emergence of a global economy, the expansion of translational
links which generate new forms of collective decision-making, the development of
intergovernmental and quasi-supranational institutions, etc. (Giddens, 1990 p.
71). The term “globalisation” is elusive
and multifaceted; although globalization is a real and dramatic intensification
of existing international patterns including the trends in the textile and
apparel industries. Critics of present global developments call for the
development of popular accountability on the part of national and global
institutions, for more public control over these institutions, for a true
internationalism, and for just alternatives to the criminal activities of
international financial institutions (2000; 2000:16, 19; 2000; 2000: 10).
Changes in textile and
apparel industries, took place, especially for developing countries like India,
because of the strong competition post by the larger multinational industries in
the global market. The general trend has been for textile and apparel
manufacturing to become more and more capital intensive and labour intensive. In
contrast, the textile and apparel industry, especially among developing
countries remains far more disjointed organisationally and is considered as less
sophisticated technologically. In addition, retailers of these industries are of
notable and growing importance and have enormous impact on the organisation and
location of clothing production. In this regard, Buyer-drive production chains
are said to be one of the factors that change the current situation of the
textile and apparel industry ( 2003).
Aside from these, other
aspects that enable changes in this sector, is the existence of the highly
concentrated purchasing power of the large retail chains. This aspect gives the
industries enormous leverages over apparel and textile manufacturers. When the
global market was dominated largely by the mass market retailers, at low cost,
demand for these industries was for long production runs of standardised
product.
As mentioned, in the
previous chapters, the differentiated market and the buyer behaviour has also
been considered as one of the aspects that enable changes in the textile and
apparel industry. In this regard, manufacturing industries both in developing
and developed countries are forced to respond far more rapidly to the demands of
the global market and specifications. Under this situation, the time involved in
meeting orders becomes as essential as the cost (Dicken, 2003). The
proliferation of the products and the short cycles of product generation,
reflected in ever-changing styles and product differentiation, contribute to the
demand uncertainty for both the textile and apparel retailers and manufacturers,
hence making forecasting of demand and production planning harder for these
industries each day.
In the global market,
where textile and apparel industries must supply an increasing number of demands
with fashions aspects, flexibility and speed are also crucial capabilities for
firms competing with product proliferation, whether they are retailers that
tries to offer broad range of choices for consumers or industries responding to
retail demands (Abernathy et al, 1999). Another
fundamental element in realizing the requisite levels of flexibility lies in the
reduction of uncertainty. Traditional methods of operation rely heavily upon
sales forecasting systems which drive all activity. This leads to large amounts
of uncertainty and consequent holdings of buffer stocks in order to combat
unknown demand. Fast and flexible response, however, reduces forecast reliance
and removes uncertainty by applying different operational practices to
individual product groups, distribution channels, retailers, etc. Hence, true
demand patterns become evident and easier to satisfy.
Consequently, textile
and apparel industries need to factor in demand uncertainty and product
proliferation, in which both needs a specific level of time-sensitive agility,
when establishing decision. Players or actors in textile and apparel industries
in the global market have been able to react positively to the changes in these
sectors (See Figure 1) One of the responses made by these industries to be able
to stay in the competition is the consideration of information technologies and
telecommunications. The emergence of more advanced information technologies
indicates a fundamental support in the management of most textile and apparel
industries.

Generally, ICT is made up of
innovations, gadgets and instruments that are based on technology; these enable
users to improve their operations, products and services. Some concrete examples
of ICT include computer systems, internet and wireless communication. Before it
was used to improve government and public administration processes, ICT was able
to provide several advantages to different fields.
One of which is the business
sector. In all types of business, innovation and expertise are two of the
important elements to be considered. In particular, information and
communication technology (ICT) encourages companies to become competitive by
means of expanding their markets, attracting and retaining customers through
tailored services and products as well as restructuring their current business
strategies. This in turn affects the business industry by transforming internal
processes and external relationships (2001;1998).
There are several
business industries that have already realized the significant role ICT has in
their operations. For instance, in the manufacturing sector such as the textile
and apparel industries in various countries, ICT has been utilized by several
companies in order to improve their production and supply chain operations.
Presently, various information systems are made available to business owners,
from less-sophisticated to more advanced systems for this purpose. In
particular, internet utilization facilitated the ease of interaction between
business and business partners (B2B) and consumers (B2C). Through the internet,
online deliveries, information searches as well as mass customization are all
made available to the customers. Manufacturers, suppliers and distributors on
the other hand, benefit from internet utilization through well-coordinated
information sharing. Online auctions are even made possible with this
breakthrough (Emiliani, 2000).
Aside from managing companies’
supply chain procedures, ICT also improve production processes in textile and
apparel industries. Specifically, these technologies enable business firms to
perform mass production of textile and apparel products at a lesser time with
greater quality. Interacting with external partners has also improved
significantly due to intranet systems and e-commerce platforms used by textile
and apparel industries as their response to the changes in this sector. Through
the establishment of communication networks, manufacturers, suppliers and
consumers are able to interact efficiently and textile industries are able to
identify the latest trends in the EU market. Aside from these, handling valuable
data becomes less tedious and costly as ICT systems allow automatic information
gathering and processing (2000).
In hyper competition, industries
continually disrupt the status quo to generate a series of temporary advantages
(1994). Textile and apparel industries are continually jockeying for having
competitive position with new products and marketing efforts in an attempt to
get the imagination of the target market with image and styling. Analysis shows
that textile and apparel industries create short-lived differentiation
advantages which are easily and rapidly eroded through innovative styles. The
textile and apparel industries, especially those small scale businesses is
characterised by very short product life, numerous competitors, fickle consumer
preferences, significantly easy entry and exit and a myriad of marketing,
retailing and manufacturing alternatives.
In this environment, competitive
advantage, especially for those small scale businesses in India, or even in
other markets is difficult to establish and nearly impossible to sustain.
Competition in the area of quality and price has intensified in this industry
and low cost manufacturing firms, especially in India initially gave an
advantage to larger textile and apparel firms which are moved earlier. In this
regard, the large number of sophisticated subcontractors in various developing
countries like India has made low-cost global manufacturing available to even
small competitors.
Part of the response of the textile
and apparel industries is the concept known as quick response (Hammond, 1990).
Part of these responses, is the use of vertical integration. Analysis shows that
vertically integrated textile and apparel industries have led to the
implementation of quick response.
The apparel industry are said to
face a number of regulatory challenges that distort investment patterns and
trade flows. The proliferation of customs practices and labelling schemes will
still lead to some market fragmentation even as harmonization in some areas
leads to market consolidation (2003).
Production Process between China and India
Many have pointed to the creation
of a textile and apparel industry as the cornerstone of this "trade not aid"
reorientation (Lamar, 1999). Businesses are said to be eyeing Asia as a new
source for low-cost textile and apparel imports for global markets (Lamar,
1999). Policymakers see this sector as a quick way to generate employment and
stimulate basic manufacturing skills that can be used for other industries.
Development economists are no doubt attracted to the notion that production and
employment in textiles and apparel can stimulate other improvements in basic
infrastructure and other social needs such as education and health.
The increasing complexity of the
apparel industry makes it difficult to derive a precise figure for overall world
apparel trade. Complex production-sharing arrangements and the proliferation of
regional, and sometimes overlapping, trading blocs lead to double counting that
muddles the import-export picture. At the same time, developing countries,
particularly those in Asia and those in close proximity to major markets, have
secured the dominant share of the world market for apparel exports. Asian
countries account for more than half of all apparel exports, or about $72
billion in 1996 (Lamar, 1999).
In Asia, India and China textile
and apparel industries are able to have their distinctive and unique
manufacturing process. During the period of Mao, textile and apparel industry in
China, not only met the basic clothing demands of the China’s predominantly poor
but large population, but it also served as an essential source of capital for
projects in some industrial sectors. Indeed, the apparel and textile
manufacturing has borne an enormous tax burden in the half of the century since
the establishment of People’s Republic of China (PRC) (1998)
Most important to this study, China
has emerged as one of the leading international traders of textile products.
According to official statistics compiled by the WTO, China was the world's
largest exporter of both textiles and clothing in 1999, accounting for 9% and
16% of the international market, respectively. (Overall, China leads the world
industry with a total market share of 13%) While China is not a big importer of
clothing, it is the world's second largest importer of textiles (many of which
are re-exported after processing), taking in 7% of total international sales in
1999 (WTO, 2000). By any measure, therefore, China has become a major player in
the world industry. Indeed, textile trade is critical not just to the Chinese
industry itself (e.g., exports account for slightly more than one-half of
China's production of textiles and clothing by value), but to the entire Chinese
economy, as well (Industry Yearbook, 2001). While the share of textile and
clothing products in China's total exports had declined to 22% by 1999 from a
high of 30% in 1994, it was still close to the 23 percent share recorded in
1980. (Indeed, textile and clothing exports still account for nearly one-half of
China's total light industrial exports). This record is especially remarkable
given the quantity-based restrictions placed on China under the MFA. Indeed, it
suggests how successful the industry has been in moving upmarket. While the
relative share of textile and clothing products in China's total exports has
declined modestly over time, the absolute value of these sales has continued to
rise steadily, reaching U. S. $43 billion in 1999 (1999). In fact, only in 1996
did the textile sector finally relinquish its leading position in China's export
profile to the machinery and electronics sector. Rather amazingly, therefore,
nearly U. S. $1 out of every U. S. $4 of Chinese exports is still earned from
the sale of textiles and clothing, this despite the rapid growth of Chinese
exports across an increasing number of industrial sectors.
Any history of the textile and
apparel industry in the PRC must begin with the establishment of MTI in 1949
(2004). One of the original four industrial ministries set up under the
supervision of the State Council, MTI was charged with consolidating an industry
whose resources were not only fragmented but also inefficiently deployed. While
the regional concentration in coastal areas like Shanghai, Qingdao, and Tianjin
made sense when Chinese producers relied upon foreign supplies for their raw
materials, it required significant change after 1949 when the new government
decided to rely on cotton grown in China's inland provinces. MTI's mandate to
exert central control over the industry notwithstanding, much of the industry's
history from the mid-1950s onward was one of partial decentralization. In the
Great Leap Forward, for instance, direct supervision over most textile
enterprises was transferred from MTI to authorities at the provincial and city
level.
It is difficult to make
generalizations about China's textile and apparel industry given its enormous
size and scope. Even in the pre-reform era, during which greater uniformity in
the economic system might have been expected, tremendous diversity existed.
While serious problems remain with the quality of its textile exports, China has
made substantial progress in several key areas: purity of fibber content; better
dyeing techniques; improved packaging; quicker production schedules; more
reliable delivery; and greater uniformity in colour, shrinkage, and measurement.
Informant including several foreign buyers who were otherwise quite critical of
the Chinese industry repeatedly emphasized that high quality production was
possible in China by the late 1980s and early 1990s, in no small measure due to
incentives provided under the MFA. Specifically, many scholars stressed that
country reputations, as prevalent as they are, are less important to
businesspeople interested in stable, long-term relationships than factory or
company reputations. For an enterprise in China to trade up in the world market,
it needs to become the source of choice for foreign buyers looking to place
orders for higher-end goods. In this sense, reputations are earned and lost by
performance (WTO, 1992).
In China, the domestic
channels for apparel are characterized using three dominant patterns as shown in
the schematic diagram below (Figure 2). Approximately 70-80% of the garments in
the local market are distributed in the local market through Pattern A (Almanac
of China’s Textile Industry, 1994) through product supply chain and interchanges
between the textile manufacturers, apparel manufacturers and the retailer to the
consumers. The large cities of China normally employ Pattern A while Pattern B
is dominant in small and middle-sized cities and towns. In pattern B, the
distribution channels or retail outlets include the specialty stores, the
department stores, and the street fashion peddlers. Pattern C is seldom used in
the local market to distribute apparel products to the consumers (retail chains
and direct mails) (China Textile University & Harvard Centre of Textile and
Apparel Research, 1999).
Figure
2.Distribution Patterns of China’s Apparel Products

Some of the ways that companies
acquired cost advantages are by improving process efficiencies, gaining unique
access to a large source of lower cost materials, making optimal outsourcing and
vertical integration decisions, or avoiding some costs altogether. If competing
firms are unable to lower their costs by a similar amount, the firm will be able
to sustain a competitive advantage based on cost leadership.
Aside from China, other
competitive textile and apparel industries are commonly found in India. This
industry is of the leading sectors of the economy of India and considered as the
largest source of foreign exchange earning for the country (2001). Analysis
shows that the textile and apparel industries in India are characterised by the
following features. First, India has the second largest yarn-spinning potentials
in the global market after China. The manufacturing India’s spinning sector is
considered to be fairly modernised. India is also analysed to have the largest
manufacturer of looms in place of to weave fabrics.
Compared to other
industry, the textile and apparel sectors in India are largely diversified and
have the capability to give a broad variety of textiles to meet the needs and
preferences of the global market, especially the demands of the U market. The
industries in India have a strategic access to a wide pool of skilled labour and
trained and skilled technical as well as managerial personnel. In India, the
textile and apparel industries’ production process consists diverse raw material
segments, ginning equipments, spinning and extrusion procedures, processing
segment, knitting and weaving factories and garment manufacturing which supply
an intensive distribution channel (See Figure 3). This production process is
considered as one of the diverse in terms of the raw materials utilised,
technologies used, and products produced. In the finding of this research, such
production process provides about 70% by value of its production to the market.
The network for distribution consists of distributors, wholesalers and a huge
number of small retailers that sells textiles and garments (Chandra, 2005). In
the study, it can be said that it is only recently that large retails sectors
exist which increases the variety and the volume on display in terms of single
location. In India, part of the production process’s distribution channel is the
strong emergence of agents who are responsible for securing and consolidating
orders for producers. Exports to EU market, are conventionally done through
Export Houses or procurement/ commissioning offices of large EU apparel
retailers.

In the study, it has been
estimated that there are approximately 65, 000 garment units in the organised
industry, 88% of this are for woven cloth while the remaining percentage are for
knits. Nonetheless, only 30-40 units are considered in the large scale industry
as the outcome of long-years of reservation of non-exporting garment units in
line with the scale sectors. Such regulation was removed in the Indian industry
recently. While large scale firms are scattered in various locations like in the
National Capital Region, Bangalore, Ludhiana, Mumbai and Tirupur/Coimbatore that
employs 3.5 million people. The study shows that the total value of the garment
production is around
Rs.1,050–1,100 bn. Herein,
81% comes from the domestic environment (Chandra, 2005). The knits sector and
the weaving sector lies at the core of the textile and apparel industry of
India.
In the study, it has been found
out that in 2004-2005 of the total production process from the Indian weaving
industry, about 46% was cotton cloth 41% was under 100% non-cotton which include
wool, silk, khadi and 13% was blended cloth. In India’s production process,
there are three distinctive technologies used which include the handlooms, power
looms and the knitting equipments. Further, analysis shows that these
technologies signify distinctive production process. The first one is the
handloom segment which includes silk, khadi and some wool. This sector serves
the low and the high ends of the Indian’s production process and value chain
both consumption garments and niche products for urban and exports markets, in
most areas in the EU market. This generates, chiefly textiles with geographical
features like silk sarees and cotton in Pochampally or in Varanasi and in other
small batches.
The next production segment is the
weaving with the use of powerlooms. This was conventionally done by composite
mills which are combined with spinning as well as processing operations. In the
study conducted, it has been shown that because of the government incentives as
well as the demand for low-cost, standard products like sarees and grey cloth
and high volume has been moved from composite mills to powerloom activities and
production process. While some textile and apparel industries like changes
themselves into a more competitive segment, other industries closed down.
In the year 2003 and 2004, there
remained 223 composite mills in Indian textile and apparel industries which
produced 1434 million m2 cloths. Most of these industries are located
in Maharashtra and Gujarat. Mostly, the woven cloth are generated from the
powerloom which are primarily located in NCR and Chennai. In the year, 2005, it
has been shown that there were 425, 792 registered and authorised powerloom
units which produced 26, 947
Chennai). In 2005, there were
425,792 registered powerloom units that produced 26,947
million m2
of cloth and have been able to
employ 4,757,383 workers. In India, the weaving sector is primarily dominated
by small scale business which has an average of 4.5 powerloom/unit and suffered
from outdated technological equipments and machineries and incurs highly
coordinated costs. On one hand, the knitting sectors have become successful
specifically in export networks. The strong production clusters like Ludhiana
and Titupur have led to development of the accessories segments. On one hand,
the hosiery segment has largely focused on domestic market and is growing
quickly.
Further, the spinning segment is
perhaps considered as the most competitive industry in the global market, in
accordance with variety, production quantity and unit process. Even if cotton is
the fibre of choice, man-made fibre which includes polyester filament yarn and
polyester fibre has also been produced by about 100 large and medium scale
textile and apparel producers in India. In this regard, spinning is pursued by
1566 mills and 1170 SMEs. Herein, mills are chiefly located in North India and
deploys 34.24 million spindles and .385 mullion rotors wile the SME scales
generates their yarn on 3.29 million spindles only .119 million rotors that
produces 2270 million kg 1106 million kg of man-made filament yarn and 950
million kg of blended yarn annually. In addition, worsted and non-worsted
spindles which produce woollen yarn have also increasingly grown to .604 million
and .437 million respectively. In the Indian textile and apparel industry, the
spinning sector is noted to be technologically intensive and the productivity is
impacted by the quality of cotton as well as the cleaning procedures used during
the ginning process.
The last steps in the production
process in the Indian textile and apparel industry is the processing segment
which include dyeing, finishing and printing is mostly found in small scale
business. The largest among this sector would dye and finish about 5000 m/ day.
Other remains as independent process houses or just part of composite mills
which use automated large bath or simultaneous processing and have a total
average scale of 20000 m of cloth in a daily basis. In this regard, about 82.5%
or a total of 10,397 units are hand processors who dye yarn or cloth in a manual
manner and dry it in open sunshine. Others that use automated and semi-automated
machineries are considered as independent process houses. In the textile and
apparel industries in India, it is said that cotton stays as the most
significant raw materials. Cotton mostly grew in the central and western part of
India, jute in eastern, silk in southern India, and wool in the northern part of
India. The relative qualities of silk, cotton, fibres and wool are also imported
by the sectors of spinning and knitting in the industry (OTC 2004 and Texmin
2007)
Reasons behind the Poor performance
of Weaker Sector
In the textile and
apparel industries, it is considered that the major players are those industries
which can compete in the global market and those industries that can provide the
needs and demands of the target market in the global industry. In this regard,
those small scale industries are considered as the weaker sectors in terms of
performance. These small scale textile and apparel industries compete in terms
of high-quality, low cost, accurate and on-time delivery and flexibility in
variety as well as volume. According, to the documents gathered
some writers believe that the
performance of small scale industries is contributed by many factors such as
internal and external to the small scale industries themselves (1997; Pearce and
Robinson, 2002).
Analysis shows that
small organizations usually thrive in a changing environment, although it must
not be unduly complex in terms of the number of variables involved or the speed
of their change. It is further suggested that the SME nimbleness in response to
change is due in part to the fact that senior managers or owners formulate
strategies that are closely connected with the work of the organization and with
other workers and managers. Control and tactical decision making is not
separated and distanced from ownership or senior management. In other words,
such firms tend to be task continuous; there is a close link between management,
planning, and the work activity. Larger firms on the other hand are task
discontinuous; there tends to be a separate and discrete planning and management
structure.
As mentioned in the previous
chapters, the limited scale of SME operations means they have a relatively low
impact on their surroundings and have a limited power to influence environmental
forces in their favour. This will include both their suppliers and customers.
However, their weakness in these areas can be countered by their ability to
react quickly to environmental change. Fundamental shifts in social values,
consumer tastes, technological developments, managerial techniques, financial
markets and so on, have brought about more complex and dynamic commercial
environments. For the SME, their less bureaucratic structural arrangements,
together with concentration in the power of the owner, allows growth-orientated
small ventures to capitalise on opportunities that emerge from such
environmental changes. There are several challenges that can be attributed as
the reasons why small scale textile and apparel industries in India have a poor
performance than its rival industries. Such challenges are associated in the
context of scale, skills, cycle time, innovation and technology, and
institutional support.
In terms of scale, analysis shows
that the textile and apparel industries in India, except for its spinning
process, suffer from the problem of scale. textile and apparel industries in
India are commonly smaller than their Thai and Chinese counterparts and there
are smaller number of large industries in the country. For instance, it has been
shown that Chinese large firms have 1.5 times higher spinning capability, 1.25
times capability in denim production and 2 times in gray fabric potentialities
with about 6 times more profit in garment that the small scale industries in
India which affects the cost structure and the ability to attract target markets
with large orders. The core tendency of the small scale industries is to add
capability once the order has been gathered than ahead of the product demand.
Accordingly, target market goes whether they see both capabilities and
capacities. Large capacity commonly goes with standardized products which are
largely found in large industries. In this regard, small scale business needs to
develop their managerial capabilities to be able to manage large manpower and
design the most strategic production process. For the size of the economy of
India, the management should have to consider bigger firms that produce various
small to mid-size batches. However, the tension between the unorganized and
organised industries must be given attention to avoid conflict. In addition, the
small scale industries in India should also consider the existence of specialist
firms which will consolidate orders, manage warehouses, book capacities, and
logistics for the delivery process.
Aside from scale, skills are other
elements that have been considered to affect the performance of the small scale
textile and apparel industries in India. For instance, small scale industries
have a scarcity of technical manpower. Analysis shows that in Indian industry
has an inadequate strategy to bring technological change in the industry.
Secondly, it has been noticed that Indian industries invest very little in terms
of employee training and development and the skills are restricted to the
existing production process (Chandra, 1998). It can also be noted that there is
an acute scarcity of trained operators and supervisors in India which affects
the performance of their employees. It has been expected that small scale
industries in India will have to invest a lot of money to increase its global
trade by year 2010. Such type of investment would need about 70, 000 supervisors
and about 1.05 million operators in the textile sectors or industries alone and
at least 112, 000 supervisors and 2.8 million operators for their apparel
industries. Herein, the real bottleneck for growth and development lies on the
availability of skilled human resources.
The next reason why small scale
industries have a poor performance than large companies is the context of Cycle
time. Accordingly, it can be said that the cycle time is the vital aspect to
competitiveness as it impacted both price and the delivery schedule of an
industry. The reduction of cycle time is strongly related with high first high
throughputs times, high first pass yield and low variability in process times,
low variability in WIP and consequently low cost. In this regard, those small
scale industries that cannot reduce their cycle times are affected in terms of
their performance, since they could not provide the needs of their customers on
time. In this regard, Indian customs should be able to provide a turnaround time
of ½ day for an order before
small scale industries in textile an apparel sectors become part of larger
global supply chains. These companied needs to have strong development in terms
of their industrial engineering, giving emphasis, and focus on cellular
manufacturing procedures and JIT and statistical procedural control to decrease
lead times on shop floors. It is said that in India textile and apparel
industries has a particularly low penetration of information technology to
improve enough and quality productivity.
Aside from the above
mentioned reasons, the poor performance of small scale textile and apparel
industries in India are also affected by innovation and technology. Analysis
shows that a review of the products exported by USA to China in January-April
2005, shows that the top three textiles and apparel products in terms of
percentage enhance in exports were Non-woven fabrics, tire cords and tire
fabrics and textile/fabric finishing mills products (FICCI, 2005). These
products are not seen in the items that India has provided. The entrance into an
innovative application domain of industrial textiles, homes furnishings,
nano-textiles and others becomes imperative if the market are to grow 5-6% of
global market a these regions are projected to significantly grow. On one hand,
innovation includes synthetic textiles which compose of 50% of the global
textile market. However, in Indian synthetic industry, this aspect is not well
entrenched. In this regard, the Technology Up gradation Fund of the Indian
government is being utilised to motivate investment of small scale business in
new processes. Aside from the abovementioned factors other reason why small
scale industries in India have a poor performance because of lack of
institutional support. Accordingly, textile and apparel policy has come along
ways in decreasing uncertainties for the industry. Such policies are driven by
global competition and also by the international trade provisions. However, in
the Indian industry, few areas of policy weakness has been noted, which include
the labour context, power availability and the customer clearance, credit for
large scale investment, shipment operations from ports and quality, which are
necessary for upgrading the technology, and enhancement of the manpower of the
textile and apparel industry.
It shows that the
status of politics in the country affects the progress of small scale textile
and apparel industries. In addition, the research reveals that most of the small
scale anticipates the uncertainties which may hit their development and they
create several strategies to lessen the effect of environmental uncertainties.
In this regard, it can
be said that for the small scale industries in India to be competitive in the EU
market and other global market, they must be able to address the noted reasons
and find solutions to solve such issues.